Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
